Apparently between 80-85% of women are wearing the wrong size bra. Most of this is because of a lack of bra knowledge as well as outdated measuring guides that no longer work with today's sizes. I'm going to get very in-depth to try to help explain proper bra fitting to help you find your dream bra.
Learning How Bras Work
First off, many women seem to think that when you outgrow a size, you increase in number until you reach the next cup (i.e. outgrowing a 34B into a 36B). This is, however, wrong.
The number in your size is the band size, and unless you gain or lose a drastic amount of weight, this will not change. If you outgrow your size, do not increase the band, but rather the cup. You will be surprised to find that the difference between cups is not as drastic as you might have thought.
Next, we have finding your true band size. Almost everything will tell you that to find your size, you measure your ribcage directly under your bust and add 4-5" to that number to find your band (i.e. a 28" measurement would wear a 32 band). This is also wrong. Your actual band number will either be one above or one below your measurement if you got an odd number, and if you got an even number, that is your band size. I measure a little under 29", so I would be a 28 band or possibly a 30.
Bras within a cup size will all vary in size. There is no standard to C and D cups; the size all depends on the band. If you find you need a tighter band (as most women do), go up one cup size for every band size you drop. A 36A will have the same volume in it as a 34B, 32C and 30D.
If you've worn the wrong band size your whole life, however, you may find that you may even need to increase an extra cup size depending on how many band sizes you drop. Different sizes are shaped to fit the breasts of that exact size. So while a 36B and 34C are the same volume, there will usually be extra gapping in the top of the bra that can't be filled out. So if you completely fill out that 36B, top and all, it's likely that a 34C will be a little bit tight on you, and a 34D might be more your fit.
The Proper Fit
The Band and Straps
The band that goes around your back is the main support in your bra. If your band is too loose, it will ride up and most of your support will come from the straps. This not only causes back pain and a very unattractive look, but the straps will also dig into your shoulders. If your straps are tight, then your band needs to be smaller. The straps should only provide minimal support and should not be what actually lifts your breasts.
The band shouldn't have much give to it in the back, and it should be tight enough to keep your bra in place all day long. If you find yourself adjusting your bra throughout the day, your band is too large and can't keep the cups tight against your body. A proper band fitting will even keep a strapless bra in place. The right band size should actually help prevent back pain, even in larger-breasted women.
If you experience your breasts coming out of the bottom or sides of the bra throughout the day, this is a band issue (although it may also be a cup issue). A tight band keeps everything in place and is essential for a good fit. If you find overflow in these areas, make sure the band is the correct size before trying on different cups.
The Cups
This part can be tricky for most people to judge, as wearing the wrong bra size your whole life can make you ignorant to what a proper fit will look like. Bra advertisements on tv are also giving women the wrong idea on fit.
Your breasts should NEVER bulge out of the top of the bra. I call this quadraboob (also called overflow). If there is bulging, the cup is too small, and you may need to go up as much as a few cups. Bulging can even be seen through your clothes if wearing a t-shirt. Likewise, if your breasts are coming out of the bottom or sides and you are wearing the right band size, then the cup is still too small.
The proper fit will look seamless. Gapping can indicate the wrong band size or the wrong cup size. Extra space in any part of the bra suggests a bad fit, and may not always be from picking up the wrong size, but can also be the result of a strange cup shape. If you don't fit a certain cup shape properly, consider a smaller cup size or a different shape completely. The underwire of the bra should come far enough under your arms to completely cover your breasts. The underwire in the front should lie flat on your ribcage, and the wire in the center at your breasts should actually be touching your ribcage and should keep your breasts somewhat separated. Bras come in all styles, so this will always differ from bra to bra. However, if your breasts are not completely situated within the underwires, then go up or down a cup so that they are. Think of the underwire as the outlines to a drawing; when you colour in that drawing, you're always going to want to stay within the lines.
The straps should fit in a way that they can be loose and don't cause armpit fat. This is a common problem and it's possible that after finding the right size, over time this fat that has situated here will eventually migrate back into the breast where it belongs. An underwire that doesn't cover the entire breast will also cause this issue.
Dealing With Breast Shape and Individuality
There is no one perfect breast shape. Some will sag, some will stick out further, and some will be widespread. The idea of finding the right bra size is to find something that fits you comfortably and gives you the look you're going for. That said, it's best to try on soft, pliable bras to find your size, then try on different types of bras that you might prefer.
Because of shape, some breasts will not receive much if any lift from a push-up, while others may experience huge lift and cleavage. This doesn't mean that this bra isn't your size, and judging size from these bras might send you in the wrong direction. If you find that a certain style in your size doesn't fit, try on a different size to see if you can find a proper fit. Remember, bras will also vary from brand to brand, so you may sometimes end up wearing a different size than your usual.
There is an endless selection of bra shapes and styles, so if a bra doesn't give you that "look" you're going for, try a different style and see if that helps any. Bras that typically have padding on the sides under the arms will help push the breasts forward into the center of the bra, giving added cleavage. Bras with padding underneath help give "oomph!" to breasts and make you look very busty while adding one to three cup sizes to your look. There are seamless bras that disappear under tight clothing as well as lacey bras that might not conceal your nipples but look very sexy without clothing. Don't be afraid to try something on, and also try your clothes on with the bra to see how it will make you look in the everyday.
Finding Your Size In-Store
Finding your real size in-store will likely be harder than you think. Most stores don't carry anything under a 32 band or anything over a DD cup. Even Victoria's Secret has a very limited selection, as well as sizing their bras a half a cup smaller than regular sizes. Try looking for a specialty shop around you; they will likely be smaller stores, as most chain-stores only carry sizes that are most often purchased. Once you find your correct size in-store, you can also look online for a larger selection, although keep in mind some of these bras may vary slightly and try to read reviews first to see if you should order a size larger or smaller.
Here are some other links to help you learn about proper fit and to give you an idea of what real bra sizes actually look like:
How to Measure Your Bra Size
Real Women, Real Sizes
Real Size 28FF
REAL D and DD Sizes
Enjoy your new size, and wear with pride!
Learning How Bras Work
First off, many women seem to think that when you outgrow a size, you increase in number until you reach the next cup (i.e. outgrowing a 34B into a 36B). This is, however, wrong.
The number in your size is the band size, and unless you gain or lose a drastic amount of weight, this will not change. If you outgrow your size, do not increase the band, but rather the cup. You will be surprised to find that the difference between cups is not as drastic as you might have thought.
Next, we have finding your true band size. Almost everything will tell you that to find your size, you measure your ribcage directly under your bust and add 4-5" to that number to find your band (i.e. a 28" measurement would wear a 32 band). This is also wrong. Your actual band number will either be one above or one below your measurement if you got an odd number, and if you got an even number, that is your band size. I measure a little under 29", so I would be a 28 band or possibly a 30.
Bras within a cup size will all vary in size. There is no standard to C and D cups; the size all depends on the band. If you find you need a tighter band (as most women do), go up one cup size for every band size you drop. A 36A will have the same volume in it as a 34B, 32C and 30D.
If you've worn the wrong band size your whole life, however, you may find that you may even need to increase an extra cup size depending on how many band sizes you drop. Different sizes are shaped to fit the breasts of that exact size. So while a 36B and 34C are the same volume, there will usually be extra gapping in the top of the bra that can't be filled out. So if you completely fill out that 36B, top and all, it's likely that a 34C will be a little bit tight on you, and a 34D might be more your fit.
The Proper Fit
The Band and Straps
The band that goes around your back is the main support in your bra. If your band is too loose, it will ride up and most of your support will come from the straps. This not only causes back pain and a very unattractive look, but the straps will also dig into your shoulders. If your straps are tight, then your band needs to be smaller. The straps should only provide minimal support and should not be what actually lifts your breasts.
The band shouldn't have much give to it in the back, and it should be tight enough to keep your bra in place all day long. If you find yourself adjusting your bra throughout the day, your band is too large and can't keep the cups tight against your body. A proper band fitting will even keep a strapless bra in place. The right band size should actually help prevent back pain, even in larger-breasted women.
If you experience your breasts coming out of the bottom or sides of the bra throughout the day, this is a band issue (although it may also be a cup issue). A tight band keeps everything in place and is essential for a good fit. If you find overflow in these areas, make sure the band is the correct size before trying on different cups.
The Cups
This part can be tricky for most people to judge, as wearing the wrong bra size your whole life can make you ignorant to what a proper fit will look like. Bra advertisements on tv are also giving women the wrong idea on fit.
Your breasts should NEVER bulge out of the top of the bra. I call this quadraboob (also called overflow). If there is bulging, the cup is too small, and you may need to go up as much as a few cups. Bulging can even be seen through your clothes if wearing a t-shirt. Likewise, if your breasts are coming out of the bottom or sides and you are wearing the right band size, then the cup is still too small.
The proper fit will look seamless. Gapping can indicate the wrong band size or the wrong cup size. Extra space in any part of the bra suggests a bad fit, and may not always be from picking up the wrong size, but can also be the result of a strange cup shape. If you don't fit a certain cup shape properly, consider a smaller cup size or a different shape completely. The underwire of the bra should come far enough under your arms to completely cover your breasts. The underwire in the front should lie flat on your ribcage, and the wire in the center at your breasts should actually be touching your ribcage and should keep your breasts somewhat separated. Bras come in all styles, so this will always differ from bra to bra. However, if your breasts are not completely situated within the underwires, then go up or down a cup so that they are. Think of the underwire as the outlines to a drawing; when you colour in that drawing, you're always going to want to stay within the lines.
The straps should fit in a way that they can be loose and don't cause armpit fat. This is a common problem and it's possible that after finding the right size, over time this fat that has situated here will eventually migrate back into the breast where it belongs. An underwire that doesn't cover the entire breast will also cause this issue.
Dealing With Breast Shape and Individuality
There is no one perfect breast shape. Some will sag, some will stick out further, and some will be widespread. The idea of finding the right bra size is to find something that fits you comfortably and gives you the look you're going for. That said, it's best to try on soft, pliable bras to find your size, then try on different types of bras that you might prefer.
Because of shape, some breasts will not receive much if any lift from a push-up, while others may experience huge lift and cleavage. This doesn't mean that this bra isn't your size, and judging size from these bras might send you in the wrong direction. If you find that a certain style in your size doesn't fit, try on a different size to see if you can find a proper fit. Remember, bras will also vary from brand to brand, so you may sometimes end up wearing a different size than your usual.
There is an endless selection of bra shapes and styles, so if a bra doesn't give you that "look" you're going for, try a different style and see if that helps any. Bras that typically have padding on the sides under the arms will help push the breasts forward into the center of the bra, giving added cleavage. Bras with padding underneath help give "oomph!" to breasts and make you look very busty while adding one to three cup sizes to your look. There are seamless bras that disappear under tight clothing as well as lacey bras that might not conceal your nipples but look very sexy without clothing. Don't be afraid to try something on, and also try your clothes on with the bra to see how it will make you look in the everyday.
Finding Your Size In-Store
Finding your real size in-store will likely be harder than you think. Most stores don't carry anything under a 32 band or anything over a DD cup. Even Victoria's Secret has a very limited selection, as well as sizing their bras a half a cup smaller than regular sizes. Try looking for a specialty shop around you; they will likely be smaller stores, as most chain-stores only carry sizes that are most often purchased. Once you find your correct size in-store, you can also look online for a larger selection, although keep in mind some of these bras may vary slightly and try to read reviews first to see if you should order a size larger or smaller.
Here are some other links to help you learn about proper fit and to give you an idea of what real bra sizes actually look like:
How to Measure Your Bra Size
Real Women, Real Sizes
Real Size 28FF
REAL D and DD Sizes
Enjoy your new size, and wear with pride!